Blog posts
We Don’t Dress Up on October 31st
From Samhain and guising to the licensed plastic mask — on the difference between a costume and a wardrobe, and what to wear the other 364 days.
Bela Never Died
He was buried in the Dracula cape. Forty years later a band announced his death and made him permanent. The officially licensed Bauhaus capsule.
Real Leather, Fake Fur, Same Argument
Fake fur was never a substitute, and pink was never sweet. On honest materials, from Schiaparelli’s shocking pink to Leigh Bowery’s Taboo.
Nothing Here Is From This Season
The fashion season was invented in 1860s Paris as a sales mechanism. On Worth, cruise collections, July coats and why an archive piece is not a discount.
Noise Pop Dressed in Black
The Jesus and Mary Chain buried pop songs under feedback and turned the stage lights off. On damaged beauty, and why the best clothes do the same.
Goth Was a Wardrobe Before It Was a Genre
Victorian mourning, the Batcave, Paris 1981 and a nine-minute single from 1979 — how gothic style was assembled, and why the clothes outlived the genre.
The Jacket Was Designed for a Motorcycle. You Weren’t.
The most copied garment in the history of counterculture is also the worst-cut for most of the people who want to wear it. That is a design problem, and it...
Dressed for the Weather, Not the Stage
Glam built costumes, punk built confrontation, post-punk put on an overcoat. On the trench, the mac and the wardrobe that refused to perform.
Camouflage Was Never About Hiding
A pattern invented by painters, issued by armies, worn in protest, and hung in a gallery — and it has never once made anyone invisible. By Florencia Macri, Creative Director...